November 23, 2012
Le freak, c'est chic!
Next week Swiss fashion designer Dorothée Vogel opens her doors to her annual Salon Privée, a showroom (by appointment only) in which Ms Vogel shows her new collection.
Fotos: Markus Pritzi
It's a clever business solution for a such small clothing brand – Miss Vogel masters her company with a team of only a handful of people – not including the retail stores and their margins by selling directly to clients in the periodically organized showrooms. The pieces can be tried on and bought immediately on location or if alterations are needed, they can be picked up in a matter of days. A lean system that is only possible through Vogels collaboration with local garment producers in the East of Switzerland: Made in Switzerland!
Dorothée Vogel is one of the most established Swiss fashion designers that have kept their business in the country. She has started her first label named "Annex" in the mid-eighties which showed in the late-nineties at New York fashion week. Later on she left the brand and went on with new projects. Since a couple of years Miss Vogel seems to have found her rhythm with the "Salons Privées".
After last year's "Colourful Business", a simple collection consisting of five designs and ten vivid colours, this season's collection is all about "New Shapes": About thirty designs- jackets, coats, dresses, skirts and suits - plus a dozen pieces of knitwear.
The inspiration were found in the colours and shapes of artists such as Louise Bourgois, Hans Arp or Calder. The looks slightly recall a sixites couture silhouette and are mostly made in a light wool crêpe: this grainy, matt fabric is ideal for Vogel's idea of an uncomplicated, modern and seasonless wardrobe with a precious appeal of couture.
Another main influence for this collection is the fact that Ms Vogel was going back to school: last year she took a course at renowned fashion school Chambre Syndicale in Paris where she studied the art of molding for a couple of months.
This play with volumes and shapes is visible in her current pieces: a three-dimensional collar on a black coat or the unconventional, lose but constructed shapes of shift dresses.
"Le freak, c' est chic!" is Ms Vogel's motto and although the colours in this collection are timeless and elegant - a lot of black and some ceramic-glaze-colours such as viola, straw, khaki, coal, wine - but there are also some of Vogel's distinctive bold patterns. Dorothée Vogel's typical tonge-in-cheek touch appears also in details such as pocket slits on a mini dress that are positioned above the bust and that look from a distance like sleeping eyes.
A well-balanced collection for all types of women and which reminds me, in a good way, of the minimalistic but clever designed collections Francisco Costa does Calvin Klein Collection or Jil Sanders come-back collection for Spring 2013.
Dorothée Vogel: "Salon Privée"
November 26 - December 22
By appointment only
www.dorotheevogel.com